Wired

 Finally, there were only two major tasks left: standing rigging and electrical. For the standing rigging, I decided to go the DIY route and make new cables with Nicopress swages. In the past, I've always relied on professional riggers. The Frers 40 has Nitronic 50 rod which is well beyond my capability to work with, other than  adjusting turnbuckles. When the Tanzer 22 needed a new forestay, we simply had one made by a rigger based on the old one, with the more typical roll-swaged fittings. The reasons for the DIY approach this time were multiple:

1. the rigging on this boat was almost certainly Nicopress swaging originally. The lower shrouds still were, and the rest were mismatched lengths that looked like they were adapted from other boats.
   
2. the boat is small and relatively light, consequently the loads and therefore rigging are relatively small (1/8" specifically)
3. I had ready access to the tools and information needed, including a proven example on a similar boat at https://stingysailor.com/2019/01/19/standing-rigging-replacement-2/
4. I was a little concerned about long wait times from riggers, since I had heard there was a backup with the recent surge in sailboat purchases
5. I enjoy the satisfaction of DIY

I set about researching further what was involved. My only point of concern with Stingy's method was the use of bare copper sleeves. Just fine in his case, trailer-sailed in mostly freshwater, but I was a bit concerned they would corrode too fast on my boat left on a mooring in salt water. Early reading yielded conflicting advice; some suggested tin-plated copper, others zinc-plated. From past experience and learning, I was already well aware of galvanic corrosion, and it became clear that zinc-plated copper was likely to be worse in that respect than even bare copper. I suspect that guidance may have come from aircraft or industrial applications with less concern about the effects of salt water, focused on simply limiting direct oxidation of the copper. Further reading suggested nickel-plated copper would be even better and I found some Loos-brand oval sleeves that met my needs perfectly! Additionally, I bought 100 meters of 1/8" 1x19 316 stainless steel wire, heavy-duty stainless steel thimbles, open-body turnbuckles, and clevis-pin shackles to complete the rigging replacement.

To measure everything, I put the rig up with the existing rigging. I quickly discovered the backstay was at least an inch too long, even with the turnbuckle threaded all the way in! I also found more than an inch discrepancy between the shrouds. I resolved to correct these.

I spent most of a day carefully constructing the cables in the basement, crimping with the Loos hand swager borrowed from my brother. I used two sleeves per loop, as recommended for 1x19 wire (same as the professionals used in Stingy's case).

To finish things off, I coated the exposed end of the cable with Flex Glue and made chafe/snag protection out of 1" ID schedule 40 PVC pipe, using zip-ties to hold in place on the upper ends.

Old rigging, cut for removal

New rigging

As for the electrical, all lighting was replaced with LED units, and all of the wiring with fully tinned, marine-grade. Most of it is 16 AWG (overkill, since none of the circuits draw more than about 2A), except the battery leads to the panel, which are just 5 feet of 12 AWG with an inline 20A fuse. I used a ratcheting crimper on  heat-shrink fittings for all terminals and connectors. I opted to make the stern light and all-round white light both portable, adding an independent switch for the stern light as well so that it can be switched off when motoring using the all-round and bow lights only, as allowed on boats this size. The all-round is also used as the anchor light. I used waterproof junction boxes with stainless steel eye bolts for the stern light and all-round white. In the case of the stern light, it gets tied to the stern pulpit when in use, stored in the lazarette when not. The all-round is atop a short pole and has the eye bolts top and bottom on the box so it can be hoisted up the mast on a halyard, sticking out above the top, and retrieved with a downhaul line. The electrical wire is zip-tied to the lower eye bolt to keep tension off the crimp connections within the box.

Previously, the wiring ran behind fabric-covered wood that was directly screwed to the fiberglass near the hull-deck joint. Some of the screws had pulled out and the fabric was disintegrating from age so I took the boards down. In it's place, I ran flexible cord channel, which resulted in a much cleaner look, I think.